Carlsbad Caverns and Guadlaupe Mountains

Today trip took us from Carlsbad NM to Las Creuces, NM via 200 miles of Texas.  We were warned to get to Carlsbad Caverns early, as many times there are lots of children who yell to create echos in the caverns.  That warning was enough to get us out of bed and packing the car early!

I was quite nervous about the caverns,  given that I have some claustrophobia.  I brought along my book about the Civil War nurse, and I thought that I could sit in the car, read, and  eat a small bag of homemade gorp while Herb descended into the dark caves by himself.

The Visitors Center was a huge, contemporary, and open structure, overlooking an endless view.  We asked the Ranger about claustrophobia possibilities down in the cave and he responded "Well, this place is ideal for claustrophobics!  This underground cavern is so big that you could fly a jet plane into it!"  (I'll be that he is asked that questions 20 times per day)

In 1914, a young local cowboy noticed swarms of bats flying out of the cave entrance and began exploring this underground wonder BY HIMSELF!  So I thought that if HE could do it, I probably could as well!

Herb led the way, and down we went.  There were warnings all over the place that if you had diabetes, heart disease, or bad knees that you'd better take the elevator.  This could be treacherous and extremely dangerous.  Herb reminded me that the signs were meant for unfit people and assured me that all would be fine.

On the way to the entrance for the cave, we passed the viewing area where people sit in the summer for the daily bat exodus.  It starts daily in the late afternoon with a few bats fluttering out  of the the natural entrance.  Then, in a matter of minutes, a thick bat whilrlwind spirals out of the cave up into the darkening night sky.  The exodus can last from 20 minutes to 2 hours.  No cameras are allowed.

The bats have migrated to Mexico, but have left behind over 40 feet of bat guano which in the past, has been harvested and used for fertilizer.

Here goes Herb..........

You Tube shows us a much better view of the caves than Herb or I could do with our camera.

We spent two lovely cool hours (56 degrees always) and decided to walk back up to the Visitors Center where we were just in time for a Ranger talk on cave formations.  Herb told me  that the programs at the National Parks are always excellent.  With our geezer passes (which you buy at any National Parks for $10.00) everything is free.

Ansel Adams did lots of photography in Carlsbad, but became discouraged with the lack of light which he needed for good photography, and the tendency for the visitors to treat the area as if they were in an amusement park. There were 20 or so of his black and white photographs displayed, and I thought they were stark and beautiful.  Maybe Ansel Adams was too hard on himself!

We drove on to the Guadalupe Mountain National Park which has been described as "magnificent desolation"  We had intended to hike there, but we were "toast" and just looked around.

The scenery is changing and is so beautiful.  It's looking more like Palm Springs every day!

                                           

This is so true

Heading west ...........and to a bed and a bath!

Weatherford TX to Carlsbad NM 12/30/11

Yesterday we drove 402 miles from Weatherford TX to Carlsbad NM.  The land was empty, dry and flat.  Herb could swear that he could see the curvature of the earth.  The landscape was dottted withl machines  (maybe 15 feet high) pumping oil.  (They looked like donkeys bobbing their heads up and down.)

Days are getting warmer and we have gone through another time zone.  Every once in a while we stop to get out of the car and hear the complete and utter silence.

Every 30 miles or so therer wold be a busy interchange with McDonalds, Popeye Chicken, Subway, Wendys and gas stations. They were often a welcome sight and a relief from sitting.  Huge trucks crowded the McDonalds parking lots, lines of people buying double big Macs, cowboy hats, boots with spurs.  We are a long way from Kittery.

 

Every 50 miles or so we'd see a bump on the horizon which, as we cruised along would become larger...................

We are listening to a FANTASTIC book on tape.  The Brief Wonderous Life of Oscar Wao.  Sometimes it's such a thriller, we don't even notice the miles!

Entering Oil Patch, Texas...............

Onwards to Andrews Texas........................

When we arrived in Carlsbad (the town, not the national park) it was 5:00 ish and our first impression was the newly built fast food places,  big dusty trucks, places where red flashing lights announced that they would loan money to you BEFORE payday!  Where there were no new buildings, the ground had been dug up in preparation for some money making enterprise to be built.

A big takeaway for me over and over again is how we are using the earth to our own purposes regardless of what is happening to the environment as a result.  It seems that we are wrecking the place!

When I told Herb this, he replied, "Well.....of course....that's been the case for years.....and of course if you and I cared enough, we would've stayed home instead of wasting all this gas!"

All the restaurants were full, so we had scrambled eggs, pancakes and bacon at the newly-built I-Hop next door.

From West Monroe LA to Weatherford TX 12/29/11

After the standard breakfast fare of hard boiled eggs, toast, peanut butter and an apple (the hotels provide breakfast usually) we set off from West Monroe LA.  The air was polluted from a nearby chemical plant, and the water was not drinkable.  The coffee somehow tasted great, though.

 We (I) set the cruise speed at 80 (that's what did all though Mississippi; no police ever took note), turned on NPR (which is a treat when we can get it).  Herb, with all his careful map planning estimated a 5 1/2 hour driving day.  The roads are completely flat with swampy and deforested areas on either side of us.  The air is hazy.

We were discussing the environmental issues that seemed to be different in each state when I WHIZZED by a statie sitting in his white car up above the road.  I just gave up when I saw the flashing light and pulled over.  He had such a swagger and an accent and a sweet face that I knew that he wouldn't haul me into court.  "LICENSE AND REGISTRATION PLEASE"

You have to understand how full this car is.  Everything takes a specific very tight space.  We need two of us to pack it every single morning so that the skis fit under the books and the duffel bags fit between the two bicycles.  There are flattened bags of clothes, helmets, tennis racquets, ski boots, books, maps, fruit snacks, 2 bags of dark chocolate Lindt balls, computer, cords, camera, ipad, cables.

I COULD NOT FIND MY PURSE.  We are on a major super highway, the state trooper had no sympathy.  He just stood with arms akimbo and stared as I pulled everything out. The skis clattered to the road, Lindt chocolate ball bag fell open and spilled onto the grass......No purse......I pulled all my clothes out of the duffel bag.  Things that I wouldn't even want Herb to see!All over the grass.

Finally Herb found my purse under the front seat, and he gave us a ticket with a comment that he'd never seen so much stuff piled into one car.  (PAHLD IN WAN CAO MAAM)

Herb took over the driving then for most of the day.  I was a bit traumatized!  We noticed a big difference in our surroundings as we passed from Louisiana into Texas.  Why is it that all we've seen in LA. has been clear cutting and ragged areas of swamp with stubs of trees?  We've seen little else except blast furnaces from nearby chemical plants.  It seems that it is a poor state.  I asked why we don't have chemical plants and coal mining in the Northeast.  He thinks that those companies do their work in poorer states where people just accept it.  (Just a thought based on driving through for one day only)


Shortly before lunch time we entered Texas.  The scenery was lovely, some rolling hills, long views.  BIG trucks everywhere.  Lots of cowboy hats.  Extremely friendly people.  The McDonalds prosper here.

Herb found Tyler State Park for our noon breakaway hike.  Some days the walk has had to be many times around a McDonald's parking lot.  But today was lovely.  Huge park with vegetation exactly like Cape Cod.  Scruffy pines, sandy soil, some ivy and the sun shining brightly through the trees.   Getting back on the highway we noticed a sign by a house:

http://icwdm.org/publications/pdf/feral%20pig/txferalhogs.pdf

Interesting day with easy driving.  VERY courteous drivers.  We're heading up towards Carlsbad Caverns

Herb's comment about the pollution, the chemicals, the smoke, the smog, the deforestation, the miles and miles of huge houses that look all the same.  (Just built....no green anywhere around these developments yet)  "Well Ellen, you don't have to like it.....At least you've SEEN it!"

Wednesday December 28, 2011

One last photo taken at Vicksburg .....a poem about the dead......

Herb showing me the (Union) iron-sided ship that slid qui

etly up the Mississippi in order to gain Vicksburg during the night but ran into a mine which blew a hole in the bow. It sunk within minutes.

Vicksburg continued 12/28/11

I cannot figure how to get photos below the first part of the blog, so I'm writing a second one for today. Vicksburg has been awarded money for working the land to make it more historically accurate. (See photo of huge tracts of land deforested and dug up) We walked up to the Illinois memorial

(See photo of huge tracts of land

deforested and dug up)

We walked up to the Illinois memorial which was an ornate white marble structure with 60 stairs leading up to it. The ceiling is a cone made of marble. The acoustics are amazing. I'll send you the movie/sound track of what the acoustics did to my scales.

We left in mid afternoon and went to the Coca Cola museum in downtown Vicksburg. It cost $3.00 and was a complete ripoff. Lots of glass cases with Coca Cola paraphernalia like lapel pins, Coca Cola hats, Coca Cola openers, glasses, t-shirts, etc.

I bought two books that look to be excellent reading for right now. UNRULY WOMEN (The Politics of Social and Sexual Control in the Old South by V. Bynum. The other is KATE CUMMING (The Journal of a Confederate Nurse)

H. and I spent time discussing WHY these young boys volunteered to be in the Civil War. Were they simply altruistic and wanted to stop slavery? I read that these boys volunteered for many reasons: ashamed to be left home/ Felt loyal to the UNITED States and didn't want to see a country split/ Needed the pay of $19.00 per month/ Were against slavery.

A guide asked us to think today about how different we might be if: 1. The Civil War had not been fought at all OR 2. The Confederates had won.

At 5:00 we crossed the Mississippi to enter Louisiana. Miles and miles of flat road ahead with timber farms to either side of the road. As far as you can see.....

Exhausted, we came to our hotel, and Herb had Hester's delicious wine, and we went out to Scotty's Catfish House (All you can eat Cajun). Herb had Gumbo with little twisty crawfish claws and big filmy pieces of okra. I had catfish and "dirty rice"

If anyone knows how to load photos so that everyone HAS to be at the top, please let me know.

Also, I am trying to make sure that everyone who wants it is receiving our blog. Let me know.

Cheers,

EK and HK

Wednesday December 28, 2011

We set out at our agreed-upon time of 8:30 and drove about 3 1/2 hours to Vicksburg, Mississippi where we visited the National Military Park. In 1863 Vicksburg was the last remaining Confederate stronghold which blocked the Mississippi River. On our journey there, we passed this sign and evidence of tornado activity. (Several miles of destroyed buildings, felled trees)General U. Grant had been stymied for several months in his attempts to take Vicksburg. He finally undertook a daring maneuver which involved crossing the Mississippi below Vicksburg, marching to Jackson, MI (with 45,000 YES.....45,000!) while fighting a number of battles along the way.

He then doubled back west to trap the defending Confederate army in Vicksburg. The Union army held the Confederates in Vicksburg so that they had no access to provisions. After 6 weeks, the starving Confederates finally had to surrender.

We saw a movie which showed a dramatic and pitiful surrender. The carnage was amazing. Thousands upon thousands dead on this hallowed land.

Tuesday December 27, 2011

We woke in Chattanooga; an industrial city where it was 34 degrees, pouring rain, and the motel parking lot was flooded. Someone was smoking down below us, and we wondered what we were doing so far from our cozy Kittery nest!

We forged ahead nonetheless and the first stop was the gas station. Gas is cheap ($3.00 gallon)

Herb suggested that we drive up to the Lookout Mountain Battlefield Park. We drove up a very tortuous and precipitous road with washed out areas on either side. As we drove up, we could look down onto Chattanooga way below. We could see the bends in the Tennessee River.

In 1863 the Confederates had mounted a seige of Chattanooga (because of its importance as a rail center). The confederates had the advantage of being located on the top of the mountain but they were few in number. The Union army charged up the mountain and drove the Confederates off. When Herb and hiked up some of the trails, we really could not believe that thousands of men and their horses had actually climbed over this steep terrain to reach the top of the mountain. I've tried to send the famous painting by James Walker showing the seige.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=Battle+of+chickamauga+james+walker&hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=-ChhQKEfp32eCM:&imgrefurl=http://www.history.army.mil/html/bookshelves/resmat/civil_war/cw_art_and_photos.html&docid=V2kZAf-cf-nPHM&imgurl=http://www.history.army.mil/html/bookshelves/resmat/civil_war/images/Artwork/hp-4-48.jpg&w=2753&h=926&ei=lIH6TtyxKITX0QGLy_ygAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=608&vpy=113&dur=5139&hovh=130&hovw=387&tx=116&ty=100&sig=116661850075615598922&page=1&tbnh=95&tbnw=255&start=0&ndsp=14&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0&biw=1244&bih=599